A5 Snap on Blades for Dogs - what blade for what breed

A5 Snap on Blades

These blades are brilliant because they do not need to be tensioned and they come in a large variety of styles, from a large variety of manufacturers.  They also fit a large number of clippers including the Heiniger Saphir (all varieties), the Heiniger Opal, The Wahl KMC Cordless, the Liveryman Harmony Plus and various Andis and Wahl clippers.

With so much choice it can becoming overwhelming when selecting the right blade for your needs.

Manufacturer:  Many people make this type of blade and there is a wide range of prices.  There is some quality difference too.  Even within brands, for example Wahl, there are the standard Competition blades and then the more expensive Ultimate Competition Blades.  The difference usually comes down to what the blade is made from - steel, coated steel and sometimes steel and ceramics.  Steel is stronger than ceramic, but gets hotter and is slightly less sharp.  However, some steel blades can be re-sharpened (not all, due to the re-tensioning required).  The coated blades sometimes stay cooler or sharper.  The ceramic blades stay cooler and sharper and are usually considered superior - but they cannot be re-sharpened and break more easily if dropped (but not during clipping).  Honestly, you can over think the decision.  They all work.  If heat is a concern, go for ceramic.  If you clip a lot, go for the fancier sorts.  If you clip occasionally, go for a good price!

The narrow blades come in a large variety of lengths.  They often come with a Number 10 blade that clips to approx 1.6 - 1.8mm (hair length after cut).  You can fit 'guards' over these blades that allow you to clip to all sorts of different lengths - this is very handy if you want different lengths for different parts of your dog or horse (eg face vs legs).  You may also want to have a longer cut during the winter and shorter cut during the summer.

For very coarse or curly hair (think of a poodle's hair) you will want a 'skip tooth' blade, sometimes also called a 'snag' blade.  This has less teeth and goes through the hair more easily.  If you have too many teeth for the style of hair, it will pull, strain your clipper and make the blades get hot.  

You can also get a 'wide' blade.  This is literally a blade that is slightly wider, meaning you have to do less strokes.  This type of blade is good for the body of a large dog for an experienced dog groomer.  However, it is not a good idea for intricate trimming arounds ears and legs and most people stick with the narrow blades.

BLADE SIZES

#10 Blade clips to 1.8mm (good to blend with a fine blade if clipping a horse)

#15 Blade clips to 1.5mm

#7F Blade clips to 4mm

#5F Blade clips to 6mm (great to go with Covercote blade it clipping a horse)

#4F Blade clips to 8mm

#3F Blade clips to 10mm

#50 Blade clips to 0.4mm   (a popular option if putting guards over the blade for different clipping lengths)

SKIP TOOTH BLADES (less teeth - good for matted, dirty or very coarse or curly hair)

Narrow #7 Skip Tooth - Clips hair to 3.2mm

Narrow #5 Skip Tooth - Clips hair to 6.4mm 

Narrow #4 Skip Tooth - Clips hair to 9.6mm

GENERAL CLIPS - quick guide for a basic clip for most coats

Sanitary & Sterile: Blade #15 - clips to 1.5mm

Feet & Pads: Blade #10  - clips to 1.8mm

Inside Ears & Belly: Blade #10 - clips to 1.8mm

Teddy Bear: Blade #4F - clips to 8mm

Note: use the skip tooth Blade #4 or #5 for general body clip for dogs with curly, coarse or matted hair.  If the hair is really matted - use scissors!

If in doubt, get a #10 blade (1.8mm short parts) and a 4F Blade (8mm longer body hair)

DOG BREEDS AND BLADE LENGTHS

There is an art to clipping, and there are usually several options that could work.  In winter people often opt to leave on a bit more hair and in summer they go a bit shorter.  Don't be afraid - give it a go!  You'll end up saving a lot of money and your dog will usually be much happier if you are clipping them.  Start by getting them use to the sound of the clipper, with lots of rewards.  Then just clip a small section - perhaps just the legs of a small trim around the face.  Going slowly pays off in the end because you will have a confident dog who knows they will get a treat at the end!

If in doubt, but a #10 blade and a set of guards that fit over the blade, so you can clip to a number of lengths.  Once you know what lengths you like you can invest in the exact set of blades, if you wish to do so.  Or you can have a look at the suggestions below.

Below are some detailed guides on the most popular breeds, and basic guide for quite a few others.  If you have any questions, please email sales@farmcareuk.com.  We are a family run business and we are happy to help.

Bichon Frise:

For clipping a Bichon Frise, the goal is to maintain the breed’s signature fluffy and rounded appearance while keeping the coat manageable. The Bichon's coat is curly and dense, so the right A5 blade will help you trim while leaving enough length for the iconic look.

Recommended A5 Blades:

• #4F blade: This is ideal for leaving the coat a bit longer (about 3/8 inch), helping maintain the soft, fluffy appearance while making the coat easier to manage and less prone to matting.

• #5F blade: A good choice if you want to go a bit shorter while still leaving enough length for a fluffy finish. It’s commonly used on the body for a neat look, especially if you want to reduce grooming maintenance.

• #7F blade: If you need to trim the coat shorter for easier maintenance, this blade works well, especially in warmer months. It leaves a shorter length but still maintains the integrity of the coat.

Face, Ears, and Feet:

• Scissors or Thinning Shears: It's often better to use these tools for detailed areas like the face, head, and legs to keep the Bichon's round appearance. Clippers can make these areas look too blunt.

• #10 blade: This is perfect for trimming the sanitary areas (belly, under the tail, and around the paws) where a closer cut is needed.

Regular grooming, including brushing, is key to preventing mats and tangles, especially for a breed with a coat as dense as a Bichon Frise’s.

Border Terrier:

For a Border Terrier, hand-stripping is the most traditional grooming method to maintain the natural texture of their wiry coat. However, if clipping is necessary, choosing the right A5 blade can help ensure the coat remains manageable and doesn't become too soft or fluffy, which can happen when cutting their type of fur.

Here are the recommended A5 blades for clipping a Border Terrier:

• #5F blade: This is a good option for the body, leaving a bit of length while maintaining a neat appearance. It gives a shorter cut but isn't too close, which helps preserve some texture.

• #7F blade: If you prefer a slightly shorter finish, this blade works well for tidying up the coat without taking it down to the skin. It’s commonly used when you want a neat and trim look but still want to avoid going too short.

• #10 blade: Use this for detailed areas like the belly, around the sanitary areas, and under the paws. It cuts closer to the skin, ideal for hygiene purposes.

For the legs and head, it's often better to use scissors or thinning shears to maintain a more natural, tidy look. Clippers can soften the terrier's characteristic coarse coat, so these areas are typically shaped manually.

Bulldogs:

When clipping a Bulldog, the goal is often to tidy up areas prone to matting or keep them cool during hot weather. Bulldogs have a short, smooth coat that doesn't need much clipping, but specific blades can help with hygiene and comfort.

Recommended A5 Blades:

• #5F blade: This blade is ideal for trimming down the coat on the body if you want to remove excess hair while keeping a short, clean look. It leaves enough length to maintain coat protection.

• #7F blade: If you want a slightly shorter cut, this blade works well for trimming the body without cutting too close to the skin.

• #10 blade: Use this for detailed areas like the underbelly, around the sanitary areas, and under the paws. This blade provides a closer cut, which is ideal for areas that require more precision and cleanliness.

For face wrinkles, scissors or a trimmer should be used gently to avoid irritation or cuts. Regular brushing is recommended to maintain coat health between clippings.

Dachshunds:

Smooth-Coated Dachshund:

• #10 blade: This can be used for sanitary areas (around the belly, groin, and under the paws). However, smooth-coated Dachshunds typically don’t need full-body clipping, just some trimming in certain areas.

Long-Haired Dachshund:

• #7F blade: This works well for trimming down the coat on the body while leaving some length to maintain the softness of the fur.
• #5F blade: If you want to leave more length, you can use this blade for a slightly longer finish.

Wire-Haired Dachshund:

• Wire-haired Dachshunds are typically hand-stripped rather than clipped to maintain the texture of the coat. If you do choose to clip, a #7F blade can be used for areas that need trimming.

Remember to leave enough length for protection from the elements, especially for breeds with more sensitive skin like Dachshunds.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel:

For clipping a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, it’s important to maintain the breed’s natural, soft look, so you want to avoid shaving too close. Generally, a #7F blade is ideal for trimming areas like the body and thinning out fur while leaving some length to preserve the coat's natural appearance. The "F" stands for "finish," meaning it leaves a smoother finish.

You can also use a #10 blade for more detailed areas like under the pads of the feet, the sanitary area, and the inside of the ears, where a closer cut is needed for hygiene reasons.

If you're looking to leave more length, a #5F or #4F blade can work well for maintaining a longer, more natural coat. Always remember to avoid shaving a Cavalier's coat too short, as their skin is sensitive and their coat provides protection.

Cockapoo and Cockalier

For clipping a Cockapoo, which has a coat that can range from curly to wavy (depending on whether they take after the Poodle or Cocker Spaniel parent), it's important to choose the right A5 blade to suit their coat type and your desired length. Here are some general guidelines:

Body:

• #5F blade: This is great for leaving a bit of length on the body while keeping the coat tidy. It’s ideal if you want to maintain a medium-length coat.
• #7F blade: If you prefer a shorter cut, a #7F works well for trimming down the body and giving a cleaner, more manageable look. This blade leaves the coat shorter but not too close to the skin, making it suitable for Cockapoos who have thicker or curlier coats.

Face, Head, and Legs:

• Scissors or Thinning Shears: It’s generally recommended to use shears or thinning scissors on the face, legs, and head. This allows for a more natural, fluffy appearance, particularly around the face where the coat should look soft and rounded.

Sanitary Areas:

• #10 blade: This blade is ideal for trimming under the paws, around the belly, and in the sanitary areas for a close and hygienic cut.

If your Cockapoo has a thicker or curlier coat, you may also want to consider using snap-on combs with your clippers to leave more length, as some owners prefer a longer, fluffier look on their Cockapoo. Regular brushing is also key to avoid matting, especially for curlier coats.

German Shepherd:

When clipping a German Shepherd, which typically has a dense double coat, the aim should be to thin and tidy the coat rather than shave it close. The breed's coat is designed for protection and insulation, so full-body clipping isn’t typically recommended unless medically necessary. Instead, focus on trimming to manage shedding and keep the dog comfortable, especially in warmer weather.

Recommended A5 Blades:

• #5F blade: This blade is a good choice for thinning out the coat and giving a cleaner appearance without cutting too close. It leaves a moderate length, which helps manage shedding while maintaining the coat’s natural look and protection.

• #7F blade: If you need a slightly shorter cut, this blade works well for a neat and tidy finish without cutting too close to the skin. It helps remove bulk from the coat while keeping enough length for insulation.

• #10 blade: Ideal for sanitary areas, such as around the belly, under the tail, and the paws. This blade cuts closer to the skin, ensuring cleanliness in areas where longer fur could cause discomfort or matting.

For a German Shepherd, it’s best to avoid using clippers on large sections of the coat unless advised by a vet, as shaving too close can disrupt the coat’s ability to regulate temperature. Regular brushing and de-shedding tools are usually better suited for keeping their coat healthy and reducing shedding.

Labradors:

Labradors generally don’t need to be clipped, as they have a double coat designed to protect them from the elements. Clipping a Labrador's coat can interfere with its natural insulation and protection, so it’s typically better to focus on regular brushing and de-shedding instead of clipping.

However, if you're looking to tidy up certain areas or trim for hygiene purposes, here are some suggestions:

• #10 blade: This is great for trimming areas like the sanitary area (underbelly, groin) and the pads of the feet, but not for large sections of the coat.

For full-body clipping, it’s not recommended for a Labrador unless it's for a specific medical reason, and even then, it should be done with care. If you do need to shorten the coat for any reason, using longer snap-on combs rather than close-cutting blades would be a better option to leave more length.

West Highland Terriers:

For clipping a West Highland White Terrier (Westie), it's important to maintain the classic, structured look of their coat, while leaving enough length for their characteristic "Westie look." Here’s a guide on which A5 blades to use:

Body and Back:

• #5F blade: This is ideal for clipping the body while leaving a bit of length. It gives a tidy, clean look while maintaining the texture of the coat.
• #7F blade: Use this if you prefer a slightly shorter cut. It’s still a good option for the body, leaving the coat short but not shaved down to the skin.

Head and Legs:

• Scissoring or Thinning Shears: For the Westie's head and legs, it’s typically better to hand-scissor or use thinning shears to maintain the natural, fluffy appearance. Clippers can make the head and legs look too blunt or unnatural, so it's common to use shears here for a balanced, traditional Westie look.

Sanitary Areas:

• #10 blade: This is useful for trimming under the paws, around the belly, and in the sanitary areas for a closer, neater cut.

Westies often require a bit of hand-stripping or special care for their coarse topcoat, especially if you're showing the dog, but the above blades should work well for regular grooming.

Airedale Terrier (my first breed of dog!)

• Body & Tail - #7F, #5F, #4F, #3F
• Head & Neck - #7F
• Legs, Chest, Beard, & Eyebrows - 30 with ¾" or 1" Comb
• Ears, Cheeks, & Throat - #7F or #10

American Cocker Spaniel

• Body, Sides, & Back Only - #7F, #5F, #4F
• Sides of Neck - #7F
• Face, Ears, & Throat - #10

Ears - you can also just use scissors on the ears - the ears are key to the Spaniel look!

Cocker Spaniel

• Body, Sides, & Back - #4F, #5F, #7F
• Neck - #10
• Face, Ears, & Throat - #10, #15

Ears - you can also just use scissors on the ears - the ears are key to the Spaniel look!

English Cocker Spaniel

• Body, Sides, & Back Only - #7F, #5F, #4F
• Front of Forlegs - #7F
• Head, Neck, and Ears - #15

Ears - you can also just use scissors on the ears - the ears are key to the Spaniel look!

English Springer Spaniel

• Body, Sides, & Back Only - #7F, #5F, #4F
• Head, Neck, & Ears - #10
• Ears - you can also just use scissors on the ears - the ears are key to the Spaniel look!

Golden Retriever

• Matted Coat - #7 skip tooth
• Body - #7F or #5F
• Legs, Tail, & Belly - Scissors

Bearded Collie

• Matted Coat - #7 skip tooth
• Regular Coat - #7F

Bedlington Terrier

• Body - #4 or #3
• Head, Ears, & Tail - #10 or #15

Terriers - Briard & Cairn

• Matted Coat - #7 skip tooth
• Short Trim - #4F
• Face, Legs, & Belly - Scissors
• Ears - #10

Irish Terrier

• Body, Sides, & Back - #7F, #5F, #5
• Head, Neck, & Ears - #10
• Tail, Legs, & Underbody - Scissors

Lakeland Terrier

• Body & Tail - #7F, #5F, #4F, #3F
• Head, Neck, & Ears - #10
• Legs, Chest, Beard, & Eyebrows - 30 with ¾" or 1" Comb

Chow Chow

• Matted Coat - #7 skip tooth
• Natural Coat - Scissors
• Body - #7
• Short Trim - #3, #3F, #4, or #4F

Collie

• Body - #7F
• For More Length on Body - #4 or #3
• Short Trim - #3, #3F, #4, #4F
• Natural Coat - Scissors

English Setter

• Body, Sides, & Back Only - #7F, #5F, #4F
• Head, Neck, & Ears - #10
• Tail, Legs & Belly - Scissors

Great Pyrenees

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Long Body Trim - #4 or #3

Irish Setter

• Body, Sides, & Back - #7F, #5F, #4F
• Head, Neck, & Ears - #7 or #10
• Tail, Legs & Belly - Scissors

Lhasa Apso

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Short Trim - #3F or #4F
• Head, Face, Tail & Belly - Scissors

Maltese

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Short Trim - #4
• Head - #4F, #3F, #30 with ¾" or 1" Comb
• Face & Tail - Scissors

Newfoundland

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Natural Coat - Scissors
• Short Coat - #4 or #3

Old English Sheepdog

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Short Coat - #3, #3F, #4, #4F
• Head & Face - Scissors

Pekingese

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Short Coat - #4 or #4F

Poodles - Kennel Trim

• Matted Coat - #7F
• Face, Feet, & Base of Tail - #10 or #15
• Body & Legs - #5, #4 or #3
• Top Knot & Tailpiece - Scissors

Poodles - Lamb Trim

• Face, Feet, & Base of Tail - #10 or #15
• Body - #5, #4 or #3
• Legs - 30 with ¾" or 1" Comb
• Top Knot & Tailpiece - Scissors

Poodles - Summer Trim - Bikini Trim

• Face, Feet, & Base of Tail - #10 or #15
• Body & Legs - #7F or #5F
• Pom-poms, Top Knot & Tail Pom - Scissors
• Belly - #10

Don't over-think it - there is only a few mm between most blades and you will soon learn!

If you have any questions about what blade to use on your clipper or trimmer for your dog, please email sales@farmcareuk.com.  We are a family run business and we are happy to help!